Most people drive to Hanle and back the same way. But with a little planning you can turn the trip into a proper Changthang loop that also takes in Tso Moriri — a vast, sapphire, high-altitude lake at around 4,500 m — for one of the most beautiful road journeys in Ladakh.
Why loop instead of backtrack
A loop means new scenery both ways, and it strings together the plateau's greatest hits: the dark sky of Hanle, the lake and birdlife of Tso Moriri, and the endless open expanse of Changthang in between. It's more rewarding than retracing your route.
A suggested shape
Every itinerary depends on road conditions and your pace, but a common flow is:
- Leh → Hanle, via the Indus valley (stop at Chumathang's hot springs). Two nights in a Hanle homestay for the sky.
- Hanle → Tso Moriri (Korzok) across the plateau. A night by the lake.
- Tso Moriri → Leh, via Tso Kar and the Moré plains, or back through Nyoma.
Confirm the current route with your driver — some connections open and close with the season and border rules.
Tso Moriri in brief
Tso Moriri is a protected wetland (a Ramsar site) and a breeding ground for high-altitude birds, including the black-necked crane. The village of Korzok on its shore is one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements anywhere. Tread lightly — like Hanle, it's fragile; see How to Be a Responsible Visitor.
Practicalities
- Permits: the whole region needs border-area permits — sort them in Leh (Permits for Hanle).
- Altitude: you'll be above 4,300 m for days. Acclimatise first (Altitude & Weather).
- Season: roughly late spring to early autumn is the friendly window (Best Time to Visit).
- Fuel & cash: carry both from Leh; there's little of either out here (Trip cost guide).
The verdict
If you have the days, loop it. Hanle for the stars, Tso Moriri for the water and light, and Changthang's emptiness tying it all together. Start by locking in your dark-sky nights — book a Hanle homestay ».
